First Bow Setup Checklist
Set up a new bow in this order: draw length, draw weight, rest and sight mounting, peep and D-loop, centershot and nocking point, paper tune, bare shaft check, then sight in from 20 to 50 yards. Every step depends on the ones before it, so working out of order means repeating work.
A new bow is a collection of adjustable parts, and the order you adjust them in matters more than any individual setting. Fit comes before accessories, accessories come before tuning, and tuning comes before sighting. Change draw length after you have sighted in and every pin is wrong. Mount a rest before setting draw weight and you will be measuring centershot on a bow that is about to change.
Stage 1: fit the bow to you
- Set draw length. Measure it properly using the draw length guide, then set the cam module or have it set. Too long is the default error and it breaks everything downstream.
- Set draw weight. Use the seated draw test in the draw weight guide. Bottom out both limb bolts, then back them out in equal full turns, keeping them within a quarter turn of each other. Record the number of turns.
- Check axle-to-axle and brace height against the spec sticker. If they are more than about an eighth of an inch off, the string set has crept and needs attention before you go further.
Stage 2: mount the accessories
- Arrow rest. Mount it square and snug, without overtightening into the riser. Do not fine tune position yet.
- Sight. Mount the bracket, set the housing roughly centered, and confirm the sight bar is vertical. If your sight has second and third axis adjustments, have them set at a shop, especially if you will shoot angles.
- Stabilizer and quiver. Fit both now, because they change the balance the bow will have when you shoot it.
- Wrist sling. Cheap, and it is what allows a relaxed bow hand. Fit it before you shoot the first arrow so you never build the habit of gripping.
Stage 3: string components
The peep and the D-loop are the two string components that determine your anchor and your nock height. Peep installation needs a press and is worth having done at a shop, where they will serve it in place so it cannot migrate. Set the height with your eyes closed at a natural anchor, following the peep sight guide.
Tie the D-loop deliberately rather than accepting the length that happens. Loop length affects both nock height and the way the release sits, and a loop that is too long adds a small amount of string angle at the nock. Set the arrow level to about an eighth of an inch nock high with the rest at launch height.
Stage 4: arrows
Do not buy a dozen yet. Work out the correct spine from your finished draw weight, draw length and intended point weight using the arrow spine calculator, buy three shafts, and build them long. Confirm the spine is right before committing to a full set. The build sequence is in the arrow building guide.
Safety: total finished arrow weight must be at least 5 grains per pound of draw weight. A 60 pound bow needs a 300 grain arrow minimum, a 70 pound bow needs 350. Lighter arrows dump energy into the limbs instead of the arrow, damage bows, and void warranties. Confirm with the total arrow weight calculator before you shoot.
The target is the accessory people postpone and then regret, because every stage below requires shooting. A target rated for both field points and broadheads covers the whole setup process and the broadhead confirmation at the end, rather than needing replacement halfway through.
Stage 5: tune
| Step | What it fixes | Time | Home or shop |
|---|---|---|---|
| Static centershot | Rest starting position, 13/16 to 7/8 in from riser | 10 min | Home |
| Nocking point | Vertical arrow angle at launch | 10 min | Home |
| Cam timing check | Both cams reaching the stops together | 15 min | Shop |
| Paper tune | Launch error, vertical then horizontal | 30 to 60 min | Home |
| Clearance powder test | Fletching contact with rest or cable guard | 5 min | Home |
| Bare shaft check | Dynamic spine match at 20 yd | 30 min | Home |
| Walk-back tune | Rest and sight agreeing on centershot | 30 min | Home |
| Sight in, 20 to 50 yd | Pin positions | 45 to 90 min | Home |
| Broadhead confirmation | Final check for hunting | 30 min | Home |
The full method for each row is in the compound tuning guide. The one row worth emphasizing is the clearance powder test, because it takes five minutes and it resolves the majority of tunes that feel impossible.
Stage 6: sight in and record everything
Sight the 20 yard pin by moving the whole housing, then set the lower pins individually, following the sight-in guide. Range your distances rather than pacing them, because a pin set at a guessed 30 yards is permanently wrong.
When everything is finished, write down draw length, number of limb bolt turns, measured draw weight, arrow shaft and spine, arrow length, point weight, total arrow weight and your pin settings. Mark rest and sight positions with a paint pen. Next season, that record is the difference between a five minute confirmation and starting over.
What a shop should do for you on a first bow
- Press the bow and install a served peep at your measured height
- Confirm cam timing and correct it if needed
- Set second and third axis on the sight
- Verify draw length against the actual ATA measurement rather than the module marking
- Give you a baseline paper tear so you know where you started
Ask to watch. Most of a bow setup is repeatable once you have seen it, and the parts that are not, anything requiring a press, are exactly the parts worth returning for.
Related
- Archery for beginners: getting started
- Compound vs recurve for beginners
- Best archery rangefinders: the first accessory worth adding after setup
- Bow maintenance schedule
Frequently asked questions
What order should I set up a new bow in?
Fit before accessories, accessories before tuning, tuning before sighting. Set draw length and draw weight first, then mount rest, sight, stabilizer and quiver, then install the peep and D-loop, then set centershot and nocking point, then paper tune, then sight in. Doing any step out of order means redoing the ones after it.
What do I actually need to buy with a bow?
A rest, a sight, a release aid, a quiver, a dozen arrows built to your specification, a target, and an Allen wrench set. A wrist sling is inexpensive and improves accuracy more than most upgrades. A stabilizer helps but is not essential at first. Many bows sold as ready-to-hunt packages include the rest, sight, quiver and stabilizer already fitted.
How much does a pro shop setup cost?
Expect roughly $50 to $100 for a basic setup including peep installation, D-loop, and a paper tune, and more if strings or cam module changes are involved. It is money well spent on a first bow, because it gets you a known-good baseline and a pressed installation. Ask them to show you each step, since most of it is work you can repeat yourself later.
Can I set up a bow entirely at home?
Most of it, yes. Draw weight, rest mounting, sight mounting, centershot, nocking point, paper tuning, sighting in and walk-back tuning are all home jobs with basic tools. What needs a bow press is peep installation, cam module changes on some bows, string or cable work and yoke tuning. Never improvise a press: compound limbs store enough energy to cause serious injury.
How many arrows should I buy to start?
Buy three built to your intended specification, tune with them, then buy the rest of the dozen once you have confirmed the spine is right. A dozen is a sensible working set because you will damage some and lose some. Have them cut long on the first order, since a shaft can always be shortened and never lengthened.
How long does a full first setup take?
Plan two sessions. The first covers fit, accessory mounting, peep and loop, and static centershot, which is two to three hours if you are careful. The second covers paper tuning, bare shaft confirmation and sighting in across four distances, which is another two to three hours. Rushing both into one evening is how people end up with a bow that never quite groups.
How we choose: we compare published manufacturer specifications, verified owner reviews, and pro shop guidance. We do not test gear in person. Draw weight and arrow spine affect safety, so follow your bow manufacturer's specifications and have setup work checked by a qualified pro shop.